*rococo revisited
Fashion Plate from 1780

{there are so many wonderful tumblrs that post with religious fervor dresses from the 18th century that I think it’s just superfluous on my part to undertake that challenge. Maybe I will post a list with all these blogs but I think most of ‘a l’ancien regime’ followers who are into fashion, are already far more informed than I am!}

distractionsoflola:

detail of Marie-Louise de Parma as a Bride, 1765, oil on canvas by Anton Raphael Mengs (Museo del Prado).
Preposterous Headdresses and Feathered Ladies: Hair, Wigs, Barbers, and Hairdressers
Rural Masquerade Dedicated to the Regatta’ites
London, Published by J. Lockington, July 9, 1776.
Etching and engraving. 
In the upper reaches of this headdress are figures dressed for a masquerade, promenading through a garden. Below is shown what may represent the first regatta in England, held 23 June 1775, partly on the Thames and partly at Ranelagh, where a temple of Neptune had been built. The bearer of this enormous coiffure, despite the female body, may be meant to be Neptune or Father Thames.
"There is indeed a kind of animal, neither male nor female, a thing of the neuter gender, lately started up among us. It is called a macaroni. It talks without meaning, it smiles without pleasantry, it eats without appetite, it rides without exercise, it wenches without passion.
(The Oxford Magazine, 1770)" —

A macaroni (or formerly maccaroni) in mid-18th century England, was a fashionable fellow who dressed and even spoke in an outlandishly affected and epicene manner. The term pejoratively referred to a man who “exceeded the ordinary bounds of fashion” in terms of clothes, fastidious eating and gambling. Like a practitioner of macaronic verse, which mixed together English and Latin to comic effect, he mixed Continental affectations with his English nature, laying himself open to satire. Young men who had been to Italy on the Grand Tour had developed a taste for macaroni, a type of Italian food little known in England then, and so they were said to belong to the Macaroni Club. They would call anything that was fashionable or à la mode as ‘very maccaroni’. Horace Walpole wrote to a friend in 1764 of “the Macaroni Club, which is composed of all the traveled young men who wear long curls and spying-glasses.” The “club” was not a formal one: the expression was particularly used to characterize fops who dressed in high fashion with tall, powdered wigs with a chapeau bras on top that could only be removed on the point of a sword. The macaronis were precursor to the dandies, who far from their present connotation of effeminacy came as a more masculine reaction to the excesses of the macaroni.

The word ‘macaroni’ appears in David Garrick’s play The Male-Coquette (1757), which features a character named the Marchese di Macaroni. Theatrical mannerisms and clothing that was fashionable to the point of burlesque were characteristic of the macaroni, whose signature was an elaborate wig, often with an enormous pigtail. A typical satire on them is “Dr Young to the Macaronies”. In so far as the macaronies aped ladies’ fashions, they were deemed to be effeminate and sexually indeterminate:

But Macaronies are a sex/ Which do philosophers perplex;/  Tho’ all the priests of Venus’s rites/ Agree they are Hermaphrodites. (‘The Vauxhall Affray’, 1770s )

[as quoted by Rictor Norton, “The Macaroni Club: Homosexual Scandals in 1772”]

loquaciousconnoisseur:

Antoine Watteau
Woman Wearing a Mantle over her Head & Shoulders (c.1718-19)
Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, Massachusetts, USA